ESCAPING THE HEAT
After our stay in Cambodia and Thailand, we realized that we would not be able to do much except for staying in bigger cities.
After some consideration, we decided to go somewhere colder. After searching for cheap flights, we decided to go to Japan, and after an intense planning session, we organized the entire trip as well as the necessary accommodations.
With the Japanese Railpass, we would cross a large part of the country from TOKYO to FUKUOKA
Route Planning
After deciding to explore New Zealand with the bicycles, I was tasked to devise a feasible route through the country.
As we would arrive in March, it was clear from the beginning that we had to consider the weather while planning our trip. The standard way to ride in New Zealand is to start on the North Island and head south.
However, starting in autumn, we would have ended up on the south island in April, and the temperatures would have been way too cold. So things had to be switched around. With the route direction reversed, the climate would end up being progressively warmer while heading north.
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Entering New Zealand, you have to be careful with the import of your bike and camping equipment. New Zealand is very careful about the possible contamination of its ecosystem. So you have to clean all of your equipment carefully before the flight.
After scanning our bags, however, we could easily enter New Zealand. I always find smaller airports much less stressful when entering a new country. Afterwards arriving in the evening, we found a quiet corner in the airport to reassemble the bikes and pack everything properly. Close to the airport in Frankton is a campsite. It is ideal to get started with your adventure.
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New Zealand and especially the West Coast gets a lot of rain. So you need to be prepared for some wet days on the bike. We did not have the best rain gear for cycling in wet weather like that. However, I doubt any “rain-prof” clothing would stand that kind of test. We had quite a lot of time on our hands and did not need to rush to get to the end of the route. So we just used the very wet days for a break and sometimes got ourselves a proper accommodation to dry.
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Choosing the proper bikes for this trip is quite challenging, in my opinion. We ended up using mountain bikes. Nearly the entire route on the South Island is either well-paved or solid gravel, so a gravel bike would be the ideal choice. Even a road bike would be feasible on most of the tracks we ended up taking.
Of course, there are really good and challenging mountain bike tracks like the Old Ghost Road or the Queen Charlotte Track.
However, they are pretty extreme and more suited to a full-suspension bike and proper mountain bike skills.
After doing the track on mountain bikes, I would suggest going for gravel, touring or a road bike with a bike-packing setup. If you are interested in doing mountain bike trails, you can go ahead and rent a suitable bike for those trails in a nearby town.
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We decided to start from Queenstown as this was one of the only airports we could reach from Australia on the South Island. The original and entire route typically starts further south in Bluff. You are able to catch a bus, and I believe also with the bike to start there instead and cycle the entire route. We opted for a more relaxed schedule, and we did not want to bother with transporting our bikes once again after struggling to get them to New Zealand in the first place.
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While bikepacking New Zealand, I pictured us camping in pristine nature along the route for most of the time. However, we quickly realised that wild camping was not allowed pretty much anywhere. Most of the time at feasible spots you can find signs explicitly prohibiting camping without a self-sufficient vehicle.
We only found one spot that was without these signs, right next to a big lake. Of course, you could just ignore the signs and look for more secluded spots to pitch your tent. However, one must respect the local initiatives to protect the natural plants and wildlife.
Probably, they were forced to put the rules in place by too many tourists not cleaning after themselves in the first place.We opted for campsites most of the time or sometimes dedicated freedom campsites.
Lake Hayes is a small lake in the Wakatipu Basin in Central Otago, NZ
Meiji Jingu Gyoen 明治神宮御苑
Quiet complex with colorful lily garden, tea house, fishing stand and pavilion.
In the center of the Meiji Shrine Park you can enter the Gyoen Park. Even though the entrance wasn't free it was a good change from the bustling city and this being the same day we landed in Tokyo flying from Vietnam.
In the center of the Meiji Shrine Park you can enter the Gyoen Park. Even though the entrance wasn't free it was a good change from the bustling city and this being the same day we landed in Tokyo flying from Vietnam.
PART 1: TOKYO CITY, JAPAN
May 2023 → Five Days 52.5km ↗ 750m ↘ 980m
Tsukiji Outer Market 築地場外市場
Market for fresh seafood and produce
Daytrip to Mount Fuji
Kawaguchiko, one of the Fuji Five Lakes near Mount Fuji, is a popular destination known for its serene lakeside views, hot springs, and seasonal attractions. However, summer visitors often face challenges with visibility, as clouds and humidity can obscure the iconic mountain, with mornings offering the clearest views.
Getting to Kawaguchiko is convenient with a Japan Rail (JR) Pass, which covers travel to Otsuki via JR trains like the Limited Express Kaiji from Shinjuku. From Otsuki, a short ride on the Fujikyu Railway (not covered by the JR Pass) takes you to Kawaguchiko Station. Despite occasional poor visibility, Kawaguchiko offers abundant charm with its natural beauty, local cuisine, and outdoor activities.
Momiji-tei もみじ亭 Hōtō Ramen Restaurant
Hōtō is a traditional noodle dish native to the Kawaguchiko region near Mount Fuji in Japan. Known for its hearty and comforting qualities, Hōtō features thick, flat noodles like udon, served in a rich, miso-based soup. The broth is simmered with a variety of seasonal vegetables, such as pumpkin, mushrooms, carrots, and green onions, creating a wholesome and nourishing meal. Unlike typical ramen, Hōtō noodles are made without salt, giving them a uniquely soft and chewy texture that absorbs the flavours of the broth.
We went for one large dinner version to share to save some money and try the different traditional side dishes served with Hōtō and this being our first trad. Japanese dinner.
JR-Pass Journey Japan
PART 3: Nikko National Park
Tokyo → Nikko 52.5km ↗ 750m ↘ 980m
Arriving with our Japan Rail Pass, we went straight into the arms of a radio team. They wanted to publish a story about things to do in Nikko during the rainy season. They were quite sympathetic, so we decided to help them out. In the afternoon, we met at the Toshogu Shrine, and they interviewed us. According to them, we did a lot of hiking (with an umbrella) that day.
Especially the japanese dubbed voices made for an absolute highlight of the day.
Roadside Cafe Stop Traditional Regional Tofu-Roll with Matcha
PART 4: JAPANESE ALPS, YAMANOUCHI
Yudanaka Station 81.5 km ↗ 770m ↘ 780m
Yamanouchi, a charming town in Nagano Prefecture, is famous for its natural hot springs and rich history. Nestled in the Japanese Alps, the town is home to the iconic Jigokudani Monkey Park, where wild snow monkeys bathe in steaming hot springs during the winter.
Yamanouchi's hot spring tradition dates back over 1,300 years, with the area historically serving as a retreat for samurai and travellers seeking relaxation and healing. Yamanouchi’s preserved architecture, traditional inns, and therapeutic hot springs make it a perfect blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.
Yamanouchi is renowned for its traditional hot spring bathhouses, or onsen, which are central to its charm and heritage. Visitors staying at one of the local ryokan (traditional inns) often receive a special wooden key, known as the "yu-meguri tegata". This key grants access to multiple public bathhouses in the town, inviting guests to explore and experience the unique atmosphere of each onsen. Each bathhouse has its own distinct features, from mineral-rich waters with therapeutic benefits to historic designs that reflect the town’s deep connection to its onsen culture.
A cherished tradition in Yamanouchi is completing a yu-meguri, or onsen pilgrimage, by visiting all the bathhouses. Legend has it that those who bathe in each onsen will be blessed with health, happiness, and good fortune. Many visitors take pride in collecting stamps or tokens from each bathhouse as a memento of their journey. This ritual is not only a soothing way to immerse oneself in the town’s culture but also a delightful adventure through its quaint streets, surrounded by picturesque mountain scenery.
Onsen eggs steamed on the side of the road with hot spring water
Snow Monkey Park Yudanaka Day 2
To reach the snow monkey park, you need to take a small hike up to the mountains through some forests, we started at our accommodation, but it is also possible to take the bus closer to the monkey park. Of course, the monkeys will bathe more often in winter, but we were still lucky to see one or two swimming in the water while we were there. The monkeys will not stay at the park the entire day as they are “wild” animals. So to time your arrival properly you can follow the official Facebook page to get updates on the movements of the monkeys.
Additional INFO
DAY 2: SIGHTSEEING
Nishiki Market 錦市場
While Kyoto is known for its serene temples and historic charm, its food culture comes alive in markets like Nishiki Market, often called "Kyoto's Kitchen." Though primarily a daytime market, the area and nearby streets have a lively atmosphere in the evening, especially during festivals or special occasions when pop-up night food markets appear.
Visitors can indulge in a variety of local delicacies. Signature dishes include yatsuhashi, a sweet made from rice flour with a cinnamon flavour, and matcha-based desserts that highlight Kyoto’s deep connection to green tea culture. For savoury options, yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), takoyaki (octopus balls), and karaage (Japanese fried chicken) are popular. You can also find kaiseki-inspired street food, offering refined flavours like grilled Kyoto vegetables or skewered fish.
From Kyoto Station, take the Kyoto City Bus number 205 (40 minutes, 230 yen) or the Karasuma Subway Line to Kitaoji Station (15 minutes, 260 yen), then a taxi or bus from there.
Kinkakuji is a must-see, blending history, architecture, and natural beauty into one unforgettable experience!
PART 5: KYOTO
Hokitika via West Coast Wilderness Trail 75km ↗ 400m ↘ 450m
A Visit to Kinkakuji: The Golden Pavilion in Kyoto
Kinkakuji, or the Golden Pavilion, is one of Kyoto’s most iconic landmarks. This stunning Zen temple in northern Kyoto features two upper floors covered in gold leaf, creating a brilliant reflection in the surrounding pond. Originally built as a retirement villa for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in the 14th century, it later became a Zen temple. Despite its history of fires, the current structure, rebuilt in 1955, remains a dazzling sight.
During our visit, the grounds were lively with school groups. We were frequently stopped by students asking fun questions about Japanese culture, such as our favorite manga and foods, which added to the experience. Although the area was crowded, the peaceful gardens and the golden reflection of the pavilion made the visit worthwhile .
Kyoto Central ↗ Kibuneguvhi Station
On the last stretch of the WCW Trail we rode some lovely trails in good weather enjoying the native bush. We ended our day after a bit of searching at the Greenstone Retreat and had a lovely time talking to fellow travelers from all over the world. I would really recommend staying there as it is also possible to pitch your tent.
DAY 3: HIKING NORTHERN KYOTO
Day 4: Fushimi Inari-Taisha
Westport 67km ↗ 860m ↘ 880m
Just for the Pancake Rocks, we decided to take a different route than usual and head further north towards Westport. We needed to ride a few kilometers from the previous night’s camp to reach it. So we ended up eating breakfast right on the rocks with a beautiful view.
KUMANO KODO HIKE DAY 1
Kan Pilgrimage Center - Nakahechicho Chikatsuyu
Tanabe City
On the last stretch of the WCW Trail, we rode some lovely trails in good weather, enjoying the native bush. We ended our day after a bit of searching at the Greenstone Retreat and had a lovely time talking to fellow travellers from all over the world. I would recommend staying there as it is also possible to pitch your tent.
PART 6: Kumano Kodo Pilgramige
Präfektur Wakayama, South of Osaka
KUMANO KODO HIKE DAY 2
Kan Pilgrimage Center - Nakahechicho Chikatsuyu
Ritchmond via Greate Taste Trail
PART 4: TASMAN BAY, NZ
Motueka 58km ↗ 1100m ↘ 970m
After circeling back from Able Tasman National Park along the coast we reached Motueka in the evening, following the Great Taste Trail. We once again videt several supermarkets to stock up on supplies and rewarded our effort with a good old Mc Sunday before watching the sunset at the shipwreck.
